Sunday, January 29, 2012

С Новым Годом!

That, for the uninitiated, is how you say "Happy new year!" in Russian. It's pronounced like this:

SNOW-vim GOAD-um

It literally translates to "With the new year!" and is often followed by "C новым счастьем!" (SNOW-vim SHAS-tyem), which means "With new happiness!"

I certainly found a little new happiness this new year. I've heard a lot about Russian new year celebrations, and I decided that (rather than flying home or jaunting around Europe for a few thousand dollars) I would stay put for vacation. As I've mentioned, it was time well spent recuperating, but the icing on the cake was having New Year's eve with my host family.

If I had to generalize, I would say that Russian New Year takes all the fun parts of both American Christmas and our New Year's Eve, and smashes them together. You get the tree, and the good food, and the presents, and the countdown at midnight, and the champagne and toasts.

You also get caviar, which I'm ashamed to say I'm totally incapable of eating. And the presents are brought, not by Santa Clause and his reindeer, but by Grandfather Frost and his granddaughter Snegurochka, who is much younger and therefore has to do all the heavy lifting while Grandfather Frost stumps around in his blue robes with his walking stick.

Snegurochka's name is pretty much impossible to translate. I've been calling her the Ice Princess, but it seems like a more common version is the Snow Maiden or Ice Maiden. The word is basically "snow+little and cute+female", so you can translate that however you want.

It all started in the morning, when the cooking began. I had decided, after the only moderate success of shortbread cookies and banana bread (the latter completely confused the Russians), to try oatmeal cookies. My host mom had her heart set on cranberry sauce, to which a previous student introduced her. I baked up a million cookies, boiled up a huge vat of cranberry sauce, and washed mountains of dishes while everyone protested weakly. (It's the only household chore that I'm allowed to do, and even then just barely.) My host mom made barrels of salad (consisting mostly of ham and fish, with the occasional canned pea floating to the surface under a sheen of mayonnaise).


That's Salad Olivier, the one ABSOLUTELY MANDATORY FOOD on New Year's Eve. You can get away without caviar, you might even be able to squeak by without champagne, but you do not celebrate without Salad Olivier. It's actually very tasty, with potatoes, canned peas, carrot, pickles, ham, and mayo.

And yes, that is mayonnaise squeezed all over the salad, which already contains mayonnaise, as a garnish. Welcome to my world.


Then her boyfriend, Kurban, came over bearing salmon and chicken.



Mmmmm salmon. Kurban had way too much fun making one of them bite me with its sharp little teeth.

At about eleven, they hollered me out of my room to join them in the big room, which is the age old russian combination of living room and bedroom for everyone but the kids. I don't go in there usually, since it's their family space, but I got a good look this time. It's quite lovely.

They'd set up a big table with all their fanciest dishes and mountains of food. Two kinds of salad, caviar, smoked salmon, fresh vegetables, chicken, cranberry sauce, and wine. Lots of wine. We all settled in with our goblets and set to the serious business of eating way too much and watching the New Years TV programs.



My host mom insisted that I get a good picture of my cookies to show you all how industrious I was.

The tradition has always been that you watch TV until midnight, and so every station goes nuts with their holiday extravaganza. They get as many celebrities as possible, in the weirdest costumes, with the most backup dancers. Most of the channels seemed to have decided that a constant rain of glitter was necessary as well. If it doesn't give you a seizure AND get a song stuck in your head, it's not fit for New Year's Viewing.

Here's an example from NTV, arguably the most popular channel in Russia.



You should really skip around a little in that video. No matter where you land, it's gonna be weird, with a strange mix of beloved old songs from Soviet movies and American pop culture, including that blue lady from The Fifth Element singing in Russian.

None of us could agree on what to watch. Babushka was firmly protesting that we had to watch the classical concerts, and everyone else was fighting over which pop star was more entertaining. In the end, we found a rerun of a Tina Turner concert on one of the weird channels, and everyone agreed on that. So we ate and drank and argued about american pop music until midnight.

At a few minutes to midnight, we hurriedly changed the channel to Channel 1, the official government channel, and waited for the President's address. This is a vital part of the new year, and always has been. When Yeltsin announced on December 31, 1999 that he was resigning as President of Russia, the biggest question on everyone mind was, Who's going to give the presidential address?

(The answer, of course, was Putin.)

This year, of course, it was poor little Medvedev. Everyone feels bad for him, like he's a little kid walking around in his dad's shoes. Everyone mocked his silly little speech terribly, and then we opened the champagne as the Kremlin bells rang in the new year. Then we argued about whether we could drink yet, or if we had to wait until the bells stopped ringing, or if we had to wait until the anthem had been sung. Vera, my most mom's daughter, couldn't participate in the argument, because she was holding her breath while the clock struck so that she could get her New Year's wish.

Only Babushka wanted to listen to the national anthem. The rest of us were joking about how no one knows the lyrics because they change them too often. Even Vera doesn't remember them. Kurban sang the soviet lyrics and laughed until he choked.

Then there were toasts, and since Ded Moroz had officially come, we all got our presents. I gave everyone cards and contributed a nice box of chocolates to the table, while Ded Moroz had brought me some fancy little soaps and a big fluffy blue towel. Then there were more and more and more toasts. I usually don't drink much, and you could see everyone relax when I let them refill my glass. Kurban finally said, "See? I was so worried! But look, she's a normal person!" as he poured me yet another glass of champagne.

There were a million phone calls to make and receive, since you have to get in touch with all of your friends and family on New Years, and there was so much food to eat and so much champagne to be distributed, so many toasts to make and old stories to share. It was an amazing night, and one of the few times when I've felt really at home and welcome on this weird alien planet.




Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Travel Tip: Stay Prepared

I know I should probably be doing a pretty photo post right now, but I wanted to write about this while it was on my mind.

My mom is raised me in the ranks of the Ever Prepared. If you're ever stranded somewhere, you want my mom with you, because she will have food, water, candy, bandaids, and just about anything else somewhere near her. Like her, I try to think ahead and stay ready. It's important to be able to take care of yourself, and just as important to be able to help those around you.

I seem to be pretty successful at this. A couple of years ago, a good friend confided in me that she'd been stuck languishing for a few hours with nothing to eat, and wished that she had my "magic purse".

In case you want your own Magic Bag, here are the basics:

Tissues. Just... just carry tissues. You always need them. Especially if you're in a region without toilet paper.

Nonperishable food. This is not the lunch you packed or the snack you remembered to bring along. This is something high calorie and palatable that can fester in the deepest darkest nook of your bag until you need it. In my case, it's a package of almonds. They're tasty, a small handful can keep you going for a while, and (important for those of us so afflicted) they contain nothing I'm allergic to. Pick something you like that fulfills these requirements.

Meds. If you need prescription drugs, for the love of all that is holy, have a few doses with you. You might be planning to get home that night, but disasters happen in all sorts of inconvenient ways- and so do rare opportunities you don't want to miss because you don't have your meds. The rest of you, however, don't get off the hook either. There are a few things that you (or someone near you) would sure like to have in a pinch. I carry a small tube, about the size of a chapstick container, which holds:
  • 3 doses of Advil
  • 2 doses of Benadryl (for seasonal allergies, allergic reactions, and bee stings)
  • 2 doses of Claritin (because I can't function without it)
  • 2 doses of an antidiarrhetic


First Aid Kit. You might think this is overkill, but it's not. I'm not talking about gauze and gloves and giant bandages, just a small pack of essentials.  The kit I carry includes antiseptic towelettes, antibiotic ointment, and several sizes of bandaids. The kit is smaller than a post card and thinner than a deck of cards, and could all fit easily in a snack sized baggie if you don't fear crumpling. I buy these kits, since I like to have them in a hard case, but they'd be just as easy to assemble yourself.

      One last item that I can't recommend for travelers (legal issues) but heartily recommend for those staying home is a pocket knife. They're useful in myriad situations and (unlike a hammer) there is no substitute for a sharp knife when you really need one. You might just want to snip a bit of tape off a hard-to-open box, or (as in the case of a good friend) you could be hanging upside down from your jammed seat belt in the wreck of your car and need to cut yourself free. It's a good thing to have that option.

          Most people don't bother to carry these things, because they're resourceful adults and like to keep their bag light. Don't be like most people. There are times when it's just not convenient, or even impossible, to find the things you need when you need them, and the basics are small enough to fit in a pocket or a clutch, let alone a normal purse or backpack.

          I recommend keeping most of these things in an easily reached pocket. I keep the first aid kit next to my documents, where I can get at both of them one-handed if I need to. And yes, I've needed to.
            By way of illustration, I have:
            • Been stung by a wasp at a fair, and not swelled into a parade float thanks to Benadryl.
              • Been on hikes with fellow students being slowly crippled by their ridiculous shoes, and saved the day by liberally distributing bandaids. (More times than I can count.)
                • Been the only person in the house with a bandaid when my host mom cuts herself. (Two different host moms.)
                  • Sliced my hand open on a candy wrapper- yes, I know- and begun bleeding all over myself while running late on the subway. This ended up requiring the tissues, the antibacterial wipes (good for getting blood off of things!), and two bandaids by the time I got where I was going.
                    • Been stranded on a broken hydrofoil in the middle of the Volga, in the middle of nowhere, in the middle of Russia, and been one of roughly three people in my group of thirty who had any food.
                      • Gotten food poisoning in the land of no public bathrooms and no toilet paper. For the love of god, carry an antidiarrhetic. 

                        Yes, you might not need these things often. But when you do, you really really do. You'll win friends and influence people by always being on hand to save the day, and you'll also be slightly less ravenous/swollen/blood-spattered when your luck is against you.

                        Friday, January 6, 2012

                        Happy new year!

                        Well, winter break has been amazing. I've done basically nothing but lounge around, read books, hang out with the family,and go to a museum a couple of times. I never thought being lazy could feel this good.

                        Normally, I'm climbing the walls by the middle of a vacation, but I started this one out with the plague and a sleep debt to rival the national deficit. seeing as yesterday was the first day I woke up before 2PM, I think I've just about settled that.

                        We're having a freak winter here. While the weather isn't nice, it certainly is warm. It snows about every third day, and almost always melts before noon the next. Wet, wet, wet. I've been staying cozily indoors, for the most part.

                        Dark, too. We're past the darkest time of the year, but it's still pretty ugly. For example, take this lovely sunrise:


                        Yeah. That was at 11:30 AM.

                        I did, however, venture out of the house to go to the Hermitage last week. I'm trying to see every room, which requires careful planning, since the museum takes up three palaces.

                        Yes, I wrote that correctly. Three palaces.

                        Afterwards, I took a little walk downtown. Since New Years is the biggest winter holiday here, everything was getting all ramped up. Jingly music, lights, the works.






                        I'm gonna stop there for now, because otherwise this would become a rambling saga. I'll tell you alllll about our lovely New Year's Eve tomorrow!

                        Friday, December 23, 2011

                        Whee!

                        So I've been goofing off a LOT lately, but I'm well now and I have to get to work eventually.

                        I've been reading a blog called Adulting, which highlights all of the little stupid things that make you a grownup. I just stopped reading it to have a little Adult moment of my own: I just made my first semi-professional phone call in Russian, and that was shortly followed by leaving my first ever Russian voice mail message. Hooray!

                        Of course, this doesn't stop me from hoping they'll communicate with me entirely by email from now on. :P
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